For the first test of the two, go to: TEST 2: Checking The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Cable.Another factor determining battery voltages are automatic transmissions with five or six speeds that can drastically reduce engine speed when cruising. That's right, you could stop testing here and say: вЂthe alternator is friedвЂ™ and be done.Д«ut I suggest two more easy tests to be absolutely sure it is bad. Replacing the alternator at this point usually solves around 90% of the No Charge conditions on any 3.3L Chrysler mini-van around the world. This is a clear indication that your Chrysler mini-van's alternator IS NOT charging the battery. A parasitic drain is tech-speak for something staying on (usually inside the car, for example: a dome-light) and draining the battery while the engine is off.Д¬ASE 2: Your multimeter registered a voltage that steadily dropped down to 9 Volts. Now, if you're having to jump-start the car to get it going, this test result points to a bad battery or a parasitic drain. No further testing is required, since this multimeter test result eliminates the alternator on your Chrysler mini-van as bad. This voltage test result tells you that the alternator is working (charging the battery). OK, let's interpret your multimeter test results:Д¬ASE 1: Your multimeter registered 13.5 to 14.5 Volts. Your multimeter will show you one of two things (as you turn on all of this stuff):ДЎ.) The multimeter will register a nice and steady 13.5 to 14.5 Volts DC no matter what gets turned on.Дў.) It will register 12.5 V DC and this voltage will decrease more and more as you turn on stuff inside your Chrysler vehicle. If the battery is completely dead, charge it up enough so that it can crank and start the engine. NOTE: You'll need to make sure that the battery has enough of a charge to keep your mini-van running for at least 5 minutes to do this test. If the battery voltage (with the engine running) is at 12.5 Volts or below, then you'll know that the alternator is not working and thus not charging the battery. To explain this a bit further, if the battery's voltage (with the engine running) is between 13.5 to 14.5 Volts, then you'll know that the alternator is working and charging the battery. This first test will let us know if the alternator is charging the battery (or not) right off the bat. The first order of business is to see what the battery's voltage is with your mini-van's engine running. TEST 1: Battery Voltage Test With Engine Running

The car stalls and won't crank (unless you jump-start it).

The only way the car cranks and starts is if you charge the battery.

It will only crank and start if you jump start your mini-van. Whenever you turn on the headlights (night driving), they glow very dim.The charge light (also known as the battery light) will be shining nice and bright on your mini-van's instrument cluster.So, when the alternator fails, you'll notice one or several of the following symptoms: The other is to provide the electrical current for everything that requires it (examples: fuel pump, ignition coils, a/c compressor, radio, blower motor, headlights, etc.), as you're driving down the road.

The first is to charge the battery, as the engine runs, so that you crank and start your vehicle since cranking the engine drains the battery. In a nutshell, your mini-van's alternator has two very important jobs to do. You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: CГіmo Probar El Alternador (2001-2007 3.3L Chrysler) (at: ). More 3.3L Chrysler Mini-Van Test Articles.Problems with the Alternator's Decoupler Pulley.TEST 3: Part 2 -Testing The Voltage Regulator Inside The PCM.TEST 3: Part 1 -Alternator Is New But It Still Doesn't Charge The Battery.TEST 2: Checking The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Cable.TEST 1: Battery Voltage Test With Engine Running.

Minitune alternator tester l